Italian wine in a new, splendid light

Italianity is, rather, a highly original work that chronicles the people who make Italian wine and the country's lifestyle what they are. The reader is taken on a unique journey to discover a way of life that goes far beyond what any technical analysis could offer.

Written by Andrea Lonardi, an Italian Master of Wine and enologist, and Jessica Dupuy, a Texas-based journalist and wine educator, the book is unlike any other work on Italian wine I’ve ever read.

In recent years, numerous books have been published on this topic, and rightly so. However, most focus on similar technical aspects, accompanied by a few statements from winery owners and winemakers.

Italianity goes beyond this traditional model and offers a new and original way of telling the story of Italian wine.

Italian identity through its territories

In his introduction, Lonardi defines the concept of Italianity as "a shared identity within a mosaic of regions that are now connected to each other."

I find this definition particularly effective, because it perfectly captures the heart of the theme.

Italy has 20 regions, all of which produce wine, each with numerous native grape varieties that represent the soul of their respective territories.

While Italian wine is the underlying theme of the book, what the authors truly intend to explore are the unique characteristics of these regions, as told through the people who produce their wines.

Dolcetto: the everyday language of the Langhe

A splendid example of the many dozens of stories in the book is Jessica Dupuy's essay entitled "Dolcetto: the everyday language of the Langhe."

For generations, Dolcetto has represented the everyday wine in this area.

While Dolcetto doesn't receive the media attention accorded to iconic Langhe wines like Barolo and Barbaresco, it has a distinct identity. It's precisely this identity, along with the pleasure it offers, that defines its value, much more than the scores awarded by critics.

Dupuy presents some producers who appreciate and enhance the unique characteristics of Dolcetto, focusing on the work of Orlando and Cecilia Rocca of the Domenico Clerico winery, the Bruno Giacosa family, and Fabio Burlotto of Verduno.

Regarding the latter, the author writes that it produces a Dolcetto that he describes as "deeply crisp, energetic, and lively. Accessible, but not simple."

It is a sincere and passionate description, born from the sensitivity of a producer capable of understanding the beauty of this wine.

It's truly a pleasure that Jessica Dupuy was able to capture and convey these nuances in her story.

And, as a Dolcetto lover, I would like to personally thank you for this beautiful essay!

Andrea Lonardi: The Winemaker's Experience and the Transformation of Italian Wine

Andrea Lonardi often recalls episodes from his winemaking career.

These passages are particularly fascinating, especially when one realizes how far the work of the winemaker can be from the elegant and glamorous image that is often attributed to him.

The story of when, in the early 2000s, he took on a new role in Sicily and found himself faced with the challenge of "bottled the greatness of Sicily" represents a significant testimony to how much the island's winemaking landscape has changed over the last twenty-five years.

Friuli's red wines: a heritage yet to be told

One of Lonardi's most passionate contributions is entitled "From Taj to Table" and is dedicated to the red wines of Friuli.

Considering that this region is known and appreciated above all for its great white wines, Lonardi's reflections on the lesser-known Friulian reds are particularly interesting.

This is, in fact, a topic that is still talked about too little.

Lonardi writes:

"The red wines of Friuli, whether made from international or native grape varieties, are not curiosities from a forgotten past."

And he continues:

"If we want to honestly tell the future of Friuli, we must do so through two colors: the gold of its great whites and the intense, spicy crimson of its red wines."

Beautiful words, written with genuine passion.

Well done, Andrea!

Pinot Grigio and Timorasso: Beyond the Stereotypes

The authors tell dozens of other stories, one of my favorites being about Pinot Grigio.

The title of the essay is particularly original: "The gray suit: usually anonymous, sometimes Armani."

Jessica Dupuy explains how some Northern Italian producers manage to express, through this grape variety, a complexity far superior to the many examples of Pinot Grigio produced on a large scale, often characterized by a standardized style.

Lonardi instead dedicates an in-depth reflection to Timorasso, a white wine that in recent years has established itself as one of the most original expressions of Piedmont.

He writes:

"In Timorasso, I see the essence of Italianness. Not perfection, but perseverance. Not uniformity, but character."

I fully agree with these words.

Isn't this perhaps the truest meaning of wine, and especially of Italian wine?

Italian wine is also cuisine, hospitality and lifestyle

Written in both English and Italian, the book is not only about wine, but also about gastronomy.

On the other hand, how could one talk about Italian wine without connecting it to cuisine?

Among the contributions we find a story dedicated to Bottega Vini, the famous Verona restaurant known for its extraordinary selection of wines.

Also particularly engaging is Lonardi's essay dedicated to his stay at Il Giglio, a small family-run hotel located in Montalcino.

Titled "A Home Away from Home: Il Giglio and the Spirit of Montalcino," the story fondly retraces the authenticity of the local cuisine and recalls how several famous wine critics have also spent particularly pleasant moments at this establishment.

Recipes, photographs, and landscapes: a journey through authentic Italy

The volume also includes numerous detailed recipes from the Italian gastronomic tradition, a particularly welcome addition.

The photographs, taken primarily by Craig Stewart, are consistently of excellent quality and fit perfectly with the book's theme.

The images bring to life the vineyards, rural landscapes, and streets of Italian cities, taking the reader on an authentic visual journey.

A particularly evocative photograph, depicting a windmill in Marsala, might even inspire the desire to immediately book a flight to visit that area.

Italianity: Italian wine is much more than numbers and statistics

Anyone who loves Italian wine, or the world of wine in general, will appreciate Italianity.

Andrea Lonardi and Jessica Dupuy deserve sincere thanks not only for their work on this project, but above all for the sensitivity and depth with which they were able to tell a fundamental truth:

Italian wine isn't just about numbers, rankings, and statistics. It's about people, culture, traditions, and identity.

Perhaps it's an ambitious wish, but I'd love to see a second volume of this work, in which the authors further explore the culture and lifestyle associated with wine, paying greater attention, for example, to Abruzzo, Campania, Basilicata, and the Aosta Valley.

For now, however, I can say that I am extremely satisfied with Italianity.