Climate change is a central theme today, which is profoundly redefining viticulture throughout the world. A tangible phenomenon every day, which can only be managed through the knowledge of winemakers, whose skills make the difference. However, climate change can also bring opportunities , as explained by Valter Fissore, owner of Cogno together with his wife Nadia Cogno. < >.
In fact, Nebbiolo , a noble and demanding vine, with rising temperatures presents more mature, elegant, silky tannins . And it is precisely in the tannins that, for Barolo, the real qualitative challenge is played out: when they are very mature, they give the wine depth, finesse and nobility; when they are unripe, they risk making the wine hard, astringent, not very harmonious.
An extraordinary example of this evolution is the Ravera area, a Novello cru that has become one of the most famous in the Barolo denomination, in which Cogno has always believed. Here, thanks to the large temperature ranges, constant ventilation and marly soils, in the decade 2010–2020, eight out of ten vintages proved to be excellent or very good. A clear improvement compared to the six out of ten vintages of the period 2000–2010, and the three or four of the decade 1990–2000.
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But there is more. By adopting practices that are more respectful of the environment and the natural cycle of plants and by intervening less, the vines have adapted to the new climatic conditions more quickly than expected . A demonstration of this comes from the technical parameters. Production has become balanced, both in quantitative and qualitative terms, and alcohol levels, contrary to what is observed in many other varieties, have not increased significantly.
< > Valter concludes.
