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President Giuliano Rossi calls for moving beyond the search for a single culprit for the decline in consumption, urging us to consider not only markups in the restaurant industry, but also the value perceived by consumers and the entire supply chain's ability to adapt to a profoundly changed market.

The world of wine is undergoing a profound transformation, and declining consumption is now a reality that the entire supply chain must confront. For Vinarius , the Association of Italian Wine Shops, the debate that has focused in recent months on markups in the restaurant industry risks offering a partial interpretation of a much more complex phenomenon.

" It's true that, in many cases, the final price of a bottle of wine at a restaurant has become very high, and this can discourage consumers. But it would be simplistic to attribute all the blame for the decline in consumption to this ," says Giuliano Rossi, president of Vinarius .

According to the association, the decline in consumption is the result of a series of factors, including changing habits among younger generations, a greater focus on health, changing family purchasing power, competition from other beverages, and a new concept of conviviality.

" The issue of markups ," he continues, " must also be viewed from this perspective. For years, the system worked because producers, distributors, restaurateurs, and wine merchants operated in a growing market. Today, with declining demand and reduced bottle turnover, critical issues that previously remained in the background are emerging. Rather than the cause of the crisis, markups therefore appear to be the symptom of a model that must evolve .

Another key element is the consumer's perceived value. " Customers don't just evaluate the price listed on the wine list, but the overall experience they receive. A skillfully curated selection, trained staff, professional service, and proper wine promotion can justify a high price; conversely, when these elements are missing, the cost of the bottle is perceived as a simple overcharge ."

Vinarius also emphasizes the importance of understanding the needs of restaurants, which face high operating costs every day. In a market where consumers can easily compare prices thanks to digital platforms, finding the right balance between profitability and competitiveness has become increasingly complex.

For this reason, the association believes that consideration should shift from the margin of a single bottle to the overall value of the customer, the frequency of purchase, and the ability to keep wine at the center of the gastronomic experience.

" For many years, we've focused primarily on the margin per bottle. Today, we need to focus on overall customer value, purchase frequency, and the ability to keep wine at the center of the dining experience ," Rossi emphasizes.

" Everything suggests we're not facing a temporary crisis, but rather a structural shift. The question isn't how to return to yesterday's numbers, but how to create value in tomorrow's market ," he concludes.

For Vinarius, the challenge concerns the entire supply chain. Producers, distributors, restaurateurs, wine merchants, and communicators are being called upon to rethink their commercial and cultural models, strengthening collaboration and building a new balance capable of restoring wine's centrality in a market that is inevitably different from that of the past.

Along this path, the association intends to continue to be a forum for discussion and proposals, fostering dialogue among all stakeholders in the sector to help shape the future of Italian wine.

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23/07/2026
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