Wine press review for Thursday, November 13, 2025!

ITALIAN WINERIES

Mustilli Winery, history beneath the tuff rock of Sant'Agata de' Goti (Campania). In the heart of the historic center of Sannio, the historic Mustilli Winery resurfaces, excavated 16 meters deep into the tuff rock. Here, the first bottles from 1976 rest, along with the first pure Falanghina from 1979, the brainchild of Leonardo Mustilli, now considered the patriarch of the denomination.

Ca' del Bosco, the avant-garde that shaped the history of Franciacorta. Maurizio Zanella retraces the transformation of a hilltop house in Erbusco (1964) into one of the symbols of the Italian classic method. Ca' del Bosco remains synonymous with rigor, culture, and continuity, with wines called upon to speak for themselves.

Cellatica-Gussago: a cooperative looks to the future with a new winery (BS). The Cellatica-Gussago Cooperative is investing nearly €2 million in a new 1,000-square-meter facility and 200-square-meter showroom, complete with a wine tourism garden and energy-efficient systems. The goal: to improve quality and strengthen the brand in an increasingly competitive market.

Cantina Kaltern, the "mosaic" of Alto Adige that challenges the markets. With 430 hectares and 520 members, Cantina Kaltern demonstrates how a fragmented property can become a strength: diverse microclimates, heterogeneous soils, and expressive grape varieties allow for the construction of a strong and recognizable territorial brand on international markets.

Monsupello: new Blanc de Noirs and signature storytelling in Oltrepò Pavese (PV). Monsupello Blanc de Noirs Oltrepò Pavese DOCG Pinot Noir Metodo Classico Extra Brut is born, presented at the Merano Wine Festival along with the short film "Future is our Heritage." This project ties together time, family legacy, and an authentic interpretation of Pinot Noir from Pavia.

ITALIAN WINE AND ITALIAN OENOLOGY

Barolo, the most expensive vineyards in Italy: up to €2.3 million/ha. According to the Italian Environmental Protection Agency (CREA), Barolo DOCG vineyards lead the ranking of the most valuable agricultural land in the country, ranging from €300,000 to €2.3 million/ha. High prices also apply to Bolgheri, Montalcino, Valdobbiadene, the Trentodoc areas, and some South Tyrolean apple orchards, while pastures in the Catanzaro area are at the bottom of the list.

The Barolo of the future: between climate, markets, and the identity of the territory. From the voices of producers and consultants of the Langhe (Consorzio Barolo, Marchesi di Barolo, Fontanafredda, Ceretto, Giacomo Conterno, Sandrone, GD Vajra, Enogea), key themes emerge: adaptation to climate change, positioning in premium markets, the relationship between wine, food, and territory, and volume management.

Novello Wine: From National Rite to Crisis Phenomenon. In the 1980s and 1990s, Novello was a mass event, with dedicated salons, posters, and millions of bottles. Today, the "wine that still tasted of grapes" appears increasingly marginalized in consumption, amid changing tastes, declining media attention, and new market trends.

The "Best Novello in Italy" speaks with a Southern accent. At the 2025 "Best Novello in Italy" competition, held during the 19th National Novello Wine Show in Rome, the winner is Cinurio from Tramontana (Reggio Calabria), a 100% carbonic maceration Novello made from Calabrian grapes. Also on the podium are L'Aurora (Zito, Cirò Marina), Cupido (Principe di Corleone, Sicily), and Fresco di Vendemmia (Velenosi, Marche).

PIWI: Resilient Vineyards: Between Dreams and an Agronomic Revolution (Emilia-Romagna) In the experimental vineyard in Tebano (RA), the CO.V.IRES and @ASTRAinnovazione projects are studying varieties resistant to downy mildew and powdery mildew. Natural crosses are selected to combine resistance and winemaking quality, with the goal of reducing treatments, diesel fuel, and environmental impact without sacrificing the style of Italian wines.

Food and wine tourism: Italy is "food and wine" in the minds of foreigners. For 55% of Germans and Swiss/Austrians and 54% of Americans, Italy is primarily a travel destination for food and wine. Rural landscapes, local restaurants, themed experiences, and visits to wineries and dairies are important. Food and wine are seen as an experience, culture, entertainment, and, for the French, even a luxury.

Italian wine and exports: over €8.1 billion and a leading position in volumes. In 2024, Italy exported €8.136 billion worth of wine (5.5% increase over 2023) and 21.7 million hectoliters, confirming its position as the world's leading exporter by volume and second in value after France. Production is expected to recover to 48 million hectoliters in 2024, and the domestic market remains stable, but risks related to US tariffs and trade tensions are looming.

Tuscany, a laboratory of wine tourism experiences. At the BTO in Florence, the Consortia of Carmignano, Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Maremma Toscana, and Morellino di Scansano present integrated projects combining wine, territory, and hospitality. Focus on winery experiences, regional narratives, and synergy between the winemaking industry and hospitality.

INTERNATIONAL

Wine Spectator's "Top 100" 2025: Italy Leads the Way, But Not Alone In the Provisional Top 10:

• No. 7 – Barbaresco 2021, Barbaresco Producers (Italy)
• n. 8 – Pinot Noir Fort Ross-Seaview The Estate 2023, Wayfarer (USA)
• No. 9 – Chianti Classico San Lorenzo Gran Selezione 2021, Castello di Ama (Italy)
• n. 10 – Châteauneuf-du-Pape St.-Préfert 2022, Famille Isabel Ferrando (France) With the new positions:
• n. 6 – Apalta 2021, Clos Apalta (Chile)
• n. 5 – St.-Emilion 2022, Château Beau-Séjour Bécot (France) Italy boasts 5 historic first places in the Wine Spectator rankings, confirming a track record of absolute importance in global fine wine.

Bolaffi Auction: Burgundy Dominates, but Italy Shines At the Bolaffi Fine Wines and Spirits Auction:

• Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Selection 2001 (base €15,000)
• Six bottles of Petrus 1999 (€10,000)
• Romanée-Conti Grand Cru Monopole 2004 (€9,000) Italy responds with Barolo Monfortino Riserva 2022 (Giacomo Conterno), Sassicaia 2012, Masseto 1998, selections by Angelo Gaja, Bruno Giacosa and artistic magnums by Bartolo Mascarello: a parterre of icons at the top of global collecting.

World wine production 2025: slight recovery, but below average. The OIV estimates global production for 2025 at approximately 232 million hectoliters (3% lower than 2024, one of the poorest years since 1961), but still 7% below the five-year average. Italy remains the world's leading producer (approximately 47.3 million hectoliters), ahead of France and Spain. The market is essentially balanced, but with weak demand and significant trade uncertainty, against the backdrop of climate change.

WINE EVENTS

Merano Wine Festival 2025: between great harvests and struggling markets. At the Merano Wine Festival, two feelings intersect:

• from the vineyards, tales of 2025 vintages of great quality, for some among the best of the last 50 years, even with a few fewer bunches;
• The markets are showing signs of a slowdown, especially for red wines, amid declining purchasing power, tariffs, and logistical challenges. There's also room for "hot" topics: dealcoholized wines, volume reductions (including through harvesting), and strategies to raise average value.

Miami's Golden Vines: Six Italian Labels on Stage at the "Wine Oscars" Master of Wine Gabriele Gorelli has selected six Italian labels to represent the country at the Golden Vines:

• Biondi Santi Tenuta Il Greppo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019
• Roagna Pajè Barbaresco DOCG Old Vines 2019
• Marroneto Madonna delle Grazie Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021
• Passopisciaro Contrada G Terre Siciliane IGT 2023
• Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2022
• Tenuta Sette Ponti Oreno Toscana IGT 2022 Focus on storytelling, emotion, and the symbolic value of great Italian wines.

Fratelli Vogadori Winery: Open Weekend in Valpolicella (November 15–16, 2025) In Negrar di Valpolicella, tours of the winery, the Amarone drying room, and the hillside vineyards. Guided tastings at 10:30 am, 2:30 pm, and 4:00 pm will share the history and identity of Valpolicella Classica.

Stajnbech: Two Fridays of free tastings in eastern Veneto (November 28 and December 12, 2025). The Belfiore di Pramaggiore (VE) winery opens its doors from 2:30 to 7:30 pm for two afternoons of tastings of new vintages: from Classico wines to Superiores, from iconic labels to limited editions. Focus on the Veneto-Friuli border terroirs and contemporary research.

Welcome to Brunello 2025, Montalcino (November 20–24) The 34th edition of the preview event features 122 wineries: tastings include Brunello 2021, Brunello Riserva 2020, and Rosso di Montalcino 2024, as well as Moscadello and Sant'Antimo. The first two days are dedicated to the press, followed by a public viewing with discussions on wine tourism and the future of wine.

FIVI Independent Winegrowers' Wine Market, Bologna (November 15–17, 2025) The fourteenth edition of Italy's most important event dedicated to independent winemakers will take place at BolognaFiere. Three days of tastings, direct meetings with producers, and a strong connection to the region and the world of wine tourism. The event will take place in Bologna until 2028.

Merano & Oltrepò: Monsupello brings its new Blanc de Noirs to the festival. Monsupello's new Blanc de Noirs Metodo Classico debuts at the Merano Wine Festival, accompanied by the short film "Future is our Heritage": a contemporary way of describing time, patience, and the identity of a sparkling wine-producing region.

National New Wine Show and Best New Wine in Italy Competition (Rome) During the 19th New Wine Show at the Officine Farneto, the Best New Wine in Italy competition honors Cinurio di Tramontana (Reggio Calabria). The selection starts with 50 wines, narrowed down to 17 for the final, evaluated by a panel of sommeliers, oenologists, and sensory analysis experts.

UNREPEATABLE! American Tour: the aperitif that changes with every bottle. Hungrycircle launches an experiential tour of cocktail bars in Padua, Vicenza, and Milan to present UNREPEATABLE! American, an "unrepeatable" aperitif thanks to the variation of the three bases (bitter, spicy, smooth) in each batch. A hybrid format combining mixology, product storytelling, and entertainment.

Thanks for reading. Today's wine press review is brought to you by WINEIDEA.IT . Until next time, because the beauty of wine is that tomorrow there's always another story to uncork.