Wine press review for Friday, February 20, 2026!

ITALIAN WINERIES

The crisis is not just macroeconomic: it affects structures, territories, and production models.

• Terre d'Oltrepò faces insolvency. The historic Pavia cooperative enters the decisive phase of its crisis: the liquidator is seeking a judicial declaration of insolvency. Banks are alarmed, the 2025 harvest is at risk, internal tensions and fragile governance are at the heart of the problem.
• Piedmont, full cellars and plummeting grape prices. Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, Dolcetto, and Moscato are suffering from an unprecedented oversupply. Record stocks, domestic consumption at 20 liters per capita, and grape prices down as much as 30%. Consortia are denouncing a structural crisis in the Regional Council.
• Passopisciaro, Etna according to Andrea Franchetti. The story of one of the volcano's iconic wineries: districts, centuries-old vines, and an identity-driven vision that continues to inspire Etna DOC.
• Baglio di Pianetto: A New Etna Path The Etna project is entering a mature phase: fresher and more elegant local wines, positioned at an accessible price, after five experimental vintages.
• Corte Normanna (Sannio) Relaunch of historic labels and strong focus on Falanghina sparkling wines: Classic Method and Charmat become central to the production model.
• Pisoni (Trentino) Since 1852, the winery-distillery has been valorizing grape pomace by transforming it into high-quality grappa: a concrete example of the circular economy applied to wine.
• Castello di Spessa and Villa Russiz (Collio) Two iconic estates in the Gorizia Collio area: history, elegance, tourism, and a great tradition of white wines.
• The vineyard by the sea (Maremma) A small organic farm in Capalbio, born from a lifestyle choice: quality, nature, and participation in the Slow Wine Fair.
• Malabaila (Roero) 664 years of winemaking history: one of Piedmont's oldest wineries showcases its region as a key identity and cultural embassy abroad.

ITALIAN WINE AND ITALIAN OENOLOGY

Regulations, internal market, sustainability and new trajectories.

• Structural crisis in Italian wine. Piedmont is a case in point: falling grape prices, high inventories, and denominations under pressure.
• Vineyard renewal: Lombardy allocates over 5 million EAAG funds for the 2026–2027 campaign, aiming to strengthen PDO and PGI products (which account for 90% of regional production).
• Organic under scrutiny: FederBio. Abandoning organic is a strategic mistake. After growth, the sector is entering a phase of adjustment, but it remains crucial for climate and competitiveness.
• Drones and Precision Agriculture : The Simplification Bill gives the green light to trials of pesticide treatments using drones. The Masaf implementing decree is expected by March.
• Unsold Barbera and Dolcetto: Thousands of Piedmontese companies are struggling: declining trade, rising inventories, and falling yields and prices.
• Chianti and Morellino di Scansano: Production is declining, but quality is high. Chianti is looking to new markets (Africa and India), while Morellino is growing domestically.
• Rankings and territories The best Ligurian white wines near Sanremo according to Gambero Rosso: Vermentino and Pigato as identity flags.
• Wine and health Nutrition and metabolism: the food context matters as much as the calories in wine.
• Carlo Petrini: A New Regeneration for Wine. Forty years after the methanol scandal, wine needs a new ethical, cultural, and production pact.

INTERNATIONAL

Clear signals: overproduction, falling consumption, and financial tensions.

• Jancis Robinson: "Too much wine." Too much unsold wine around the world. Australia, France, and New Zealand are struggling with declining exports and production models that need rethinking.
• EU exports in decline. Bottled PDO wines have lost €424 million in three years. An overall decline of 2.8% in value.
• Treasury Wine Estate in crisis. The Australian giant closed the first half of the year with operating income down 39.6%, write-downs of over AUD 770 million, and a halt to dividends.

WINE EVENTS AND SYSTEM

Trade fairs, EU policies, and new promotional platforms.

• The Best Italian Wines – Rome EUR 25th edition of the event hosted by Luca and Francesca Romana Maroni. The 2026 focus is on dealcohol-free and low-alcohol wines.
• FuoriVinifera (Trentino) 100 Alpine winemakers among cellars, palaces, and vineyards: the event changes format and territory.
• Cristina Mercuri, the first Italian Master of Wine. A historic milestone for education and equality in the wine world.
• EU Wine Package approved. Green light from the European Parliament: new rules on dealcohol products, labeling, and market instruments.
• Wine and Sicily Package: Concrete opportunities for one of Italy's key wine regions: competitiveness, related industries, and employment.
• Wines Experience: A new international platform for promoting Italian wine in the UK, Vietnam, and Mexico.

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