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The Italian wine sector, like the European one, is going through a particularly delicate phase, caught between climate change, geopolitical crises, trade wars and new consumption habits that put the balance of supply and demand at risk.

The decrease compared to April is 6.3%, but still remains 0.4% higher than May 2024. The concern is that with the next imminent harvest the risk of overproduction becomes concrete, worsening the difficulties already recorded by domestic and foreign sales.

Falling consumption and market trends : in Italy, large-scale distribution continues to maintain a dominant role, unlike France where large-scale distribution has lost ground in favor of wine shops, direct sales and online. US consumption of Italian wine recorded a 10.6% drop in May on an annual basis, with a negative trend of 6.3% in the first five months of 2025. Operators in the sector, also concerned by the imposition of US duties, are looking to alternative markets such as Canada, the United Kingdom and Japan.

Consumer preferences : the trend towards sparkling wines, dry white wines, organic, premium and winemaker products is confirmed, while red wines are suffering a significant contraction. According to Valoritalia, in 2024 red denominations lost 6.8%, while sparkling wines gained 5%. DOCs also grew slightly (2.7%), compared to a decline in DOCGs for the third consecutive year (-2.3%) and IGTs (-6.3%).

The international context : France and Spain are facing similar situations. France, with prices in free fall and sales at a standstill, has launched massive vineyard uprooting plans to reduce surpluses. In Spain, food consumption of wine has fallen by 2.4% in 2024, despite an increase in average prices (3.9%). The Cava sector has also closed in decline.

Political and institutional responses : at European level, the “Wine Package” was approved by the Council, aimed at strengthening the competitiveness of the sector, simplifying labelling and promoting resilience to climate change. Now we await the final approval of the European Parliament. At the same time, the main producing countries (Italy, France, Spain) have reiterated the need for greater diplomatic support from the EU to avoid the escalation of duties with the United States and to address global tensions.

Focus Piedmont : in the heart of one of the most symbolic regions of Italian wine, the Consortia have asked the Region to convene the General States of Wine to discuss emergency measures, including the extraordinary distillation of surpluses. Of particular concern are Barbera, Dolcetto, Moscato and Cortese, with unsold stock estimated at tens of thousands of hectoliters.

The overall economic picture : despite the difficulties, the Italian wine supply chain confirms its strength. In 2024, the certified wine sector exceeded 9 billion euros in value, with 2.019 billion bottles placed on the market. Resilience is also evident in the stability of overall agri-food exports, which in 2024 reached 10.5 billion (including spirits and vinegars), with a positive trade balance of 8.9 billion euros.

According to Nomisma data for the Federvini Observatory, in the first quarter of 2025, Italian large-scale distribution recorded wine sales of 694 million euros, slightly down (-1%), with growth driven by Classic Method sparkling wines (7.1%) and sweet Charmat (2%). Generic wines and low-value reds, on the other hand, are suffering.

Outlook : the sector is called to react through market diversification, remodeling of the offer (for example on premium or organic wines) and the search for greater environmental and economic sustainability, increasingly requested by consumers. The smaller and more fragmented denominations risk not being able to withstand the impact, unless there is a structural reform of the consortium system.

In short, Italian wine remains a symbol of Made in Italy, but to maintain competitiveness and prestige, rapid choices, targeted investments and more incisive institutional support will be needed, both at national and community level.

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27/06/2025
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