Wine Press Review – Tuesday 27 May 2025

By QUIDQUID – The essence of wine, every day

Market Trends and Consumption

Consumption down: exports are no longer enough

The Italian Wine Union (UIV) issues a warning to politicians: “Look at final consumption, not just shipments”. Istat data indicate a slowdown in exports, after a period “drugged” by pre-duty US purchases. In non-EU markets, the drop in volumes is -9% in the first quarter, while the value remains almost unchanged (-0.1%). Excluding the United States, the drop would have been almost -17%.

Italian exports: values increase in February, volumes decrease

In February 2025, a 3.67% increase in value was recorded (€1.19 billion), but volumes fell by -1.7%. Sparkling wines held up (4.57% in value), but sparkling IGP wines collapsed (-33% in volume). A negative sign for Asti Spumante, while Prosecco continues to shine (7.5% in value).

In France, vineyard prices are collapsing, even in Bordeaux

In 2024, the turnover for the purchase and sale of French vineyards falls by -4.8%. Declining domestic consumption and climatic difficulties have a heavy impact on the value of vineyard land.

Innovation, Sustainability and New Frontiers

Vineyards in the city: the Turin project that brings the vineyard into the urban greenery

The startup Citiculture aims to plant vineyards in urban centers. A visionary idea born in Turin that combines agroecology, urban regeneration and community.

Lightweight packaging and sustainability: Elena Walch's challenge

The Alto Adige winery launches 395-gram bottles for the “Linea Selezione”, with an estimated saving of 64 tons of CO₂ per year. A project born from an environmental study by the Ökoinstitut of Alto Adige.

Apnea: the sparkling wine that ages in Lake Como

The fifth edition of “Apnea” re-emerges from the waters of the Lario. Bottles suspended at 16 meters of depth for over two years, in an environment that guarantees natural remuage and unique quality.

TIRAMISU: underwater cellars between Italy and France

Cross-border project launched to build two underwater cellars, one for each country, to refine wines at the bottom of the sea. Cooperation, innovation and valorization of the most creative winemaking techniques.

Events and Awards

Rainoldi celebrates 100 years: wine as culture

The Valtellina company celebrates its centenary with the publication of the book “Culto” and a big party among the vineyards. Four generations and one goal: to unite tradition and innovation.

Cantine Aperte Umbria 2025: boom in attendance

Over 70,000 visitors, more than 11,000 AIRC glasses sold and 70,000 euros raised for research. The “Cene del Vignaiolo” are sold out. A food and wine and solidarity success.

Alberto Toffanello is the Best Sommelier of Veneto 2025

The 33-year-old from Padua wins the AIS Veneto competition with a brilliant performance. Awarded with a study trip to Portugal and access to the national semifinal.

The perfumes of Lamole: the 22nd edition is underway

From May 31st to June 2nd, Chianti Classico celebrates wine and community with tastings, meetings and the best producers of the village.

Internationalization and Strategies

Mediobanca: Italian wine grows, driven by bubbles

According to the report, Italy is the first exporter in terms of quantity and the second in terms of value. Production 15.1% in 2024, consumption 0.1%. Excellent state of health for the sector, also thanks to exports.

Gambero Rosso lands in India with the Top Italian Wines Roadshow

Over 50 wineries protagonists in Mumbai: curiosity, culture and quality protagonists in an expanding market, with an increasingly knowledgeable professional public.

CMO Wine: 98 million for extra-EU promotion

MASAF publishes the new notice for promotion in third countries. For the first time, everything will be managed via a digital platform. The goal: to strengthen the Italian presence on international markets.

Territory, Tradition and Identity

Sardinia: Giovanna Chessa's Cagnulari conquers the experts

A little-known native vine, but with great potential. In the Sassari area, the Chessa company demonstrates how Cagnulari can offer excellent wines, rich in identity.

Valle Peligna: the winery returns to the historic center

In Pratola Peligna, the winemaker Guerino Pescara relaunches wine tourism with an urban winery. A return to the roots, with historic spaces recovered to tell the story of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.

Tradition vs Innovation? Knowledge is needed

Enoforum opens the debate: “A great wine is also born from science”. We need to tell modern oenology in a simple way, to overcome false myths and enhance research and technique.

Kosovo: an ancient cellar restored thanks to Piedmont

The project, supported by the Piedmont Region and the Kfor mission, aims to relaunch Velika Hoča as a wine-growing and cultural hub.

Insights & Opinions

Celeste Dotti: “Battles are won from within the Consortia”

The Franciacorta producer defends the value of collaboration and consortium work. “Territory” is the key word to read the identity of quality wine.

Timorasso: a strong identity that looks to the future

Derthona Due.Zero strengthens the narrative around Timorasso. 70 labels to taste, 50 producers, one watchword: identity. Because there is no growth without awareness.

Billionaire Collections: $9.3 Million for Joseph Lau's Cellar

Hong Kong tycoon sells part of his private collection at Christie's. Among the bottles, Romanée-Conti and Petrus. All 200 lots sold.

Restaurant Scams Boom: Cheap Wines Passed Off as Top

In Paris (and elsewhere), waiters reveal unfair practices: low-quality wines served instead of prestigious labels. The Parisien investigation sparks discussion in the restaurant world.

Consortia and Territories

Consorzio IGT Toscana: towards erga omnes

President Cesare Cecchi emphasizes the importance of being “the common home” of the 4,000 producers who claim the IGT Toscana. “Promotion and protection must grow together”.

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